The launch of the Bvlgari Tubogas Manchette marks an important phase in the evolution of Bvlgari’s jewellery watches. This model is not merely an extension of the Tubogas aesthetic; it represents a concrete demonstration of how the Roman Maison balances its high jewellery expertise with the development of ultra-compact mechanical movements. Within the context of LVMH Watch Week 2026, Bvlgari clearly positions the Tubogas Manchette as a horological object that deserves technical analysis, not just visual appreciation.
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Explore the full discussion of the Bvlgari Tubogas Manchette below!
The Position of Tubogas Manchette in Bvlgari’s Design History
The name “Manchette” in the context of Bvlgari refers to a cuff silhouette that is bold, wide, and visually assertive on the wrist. In the Bvlgari Tubogas Manchette, this approach does not stand alone, but is rooted in Bvlgari’s design archives from 1974 when the maison was actively exploring cuff watches constructed with single-coil Tubogas bracelets.
Unlike classic Tubogas designs that emphasise the snake-head figure, the Manchette moves towards a cleaner geometric expression. The small dial does not function as the dominant focal point, but rather as a functional element integrated into the cuff structure. This approach aligns with Bvlgari’s philosophy over the past decades: the watch as an integral part of jewellery, not a separate object affixed to it.
Function Behind the Aesthetics of the Single-Coil Tubogas
One of the most relevant technical aspects of the Bvlgari Tubogas Manchette lies in the construction of its single-coil Tubogas bracelet. The Tubogas technique—originally inspired by the flexible gas pipes used in post-war Italian industry—has been a defining structural identity of Bvlgari since the late 1940s.
In the Manchette version, each yellow gold link is individually moulded and polished before being assembled onto an internal flexible blade made of titanium. This construction allows for:
- High flexibility without the use of conventional hinges
- More even weight distribution across the wide cuff
- A level of wearing comfort rarely found in solid gold cuff watches
With a bracelet length of approximately 135 mm and a tapering profile, the Tubogas Manchette is designed to follow the contours of the wrist rather than press against it. From a jewellery engineering perspective, this represents a complex structural solution, particularly when considering the additional weight introduced by diamond settings and coloured gemstones.
Gemstone Composition
Bvlgari is widely recognised as a colour specialist in the field of high jewellery, and the same principle is applied to the Bvlgari Tubogas Manchette. The gemstone palette includes citrine, rubellite, peridot, amethyst, topaz, and spessartite.
These stones are selected not only for their colour, but also for their structural stability when set on the curved surface of a cuff. A combination of cabochon, pear-cut, and round-cut stones creates controlled variations of light reflection without disrupting the distinctive Tubogas design.
Nearly 12 carats of diamonds are applied across the bracelet and bezel, complemented by a pavé diamond dial weighing approximately 0.6 carat. The placement of the diamonds is not purely ornamental; the radial patterns engraved into the gold help reinforce symmetry and maintain visual balance between the dial and the cuff.
Small Scale and High Precision in the Dial and Case
The dial of the Bvlgari Tubogas Manchette measures approximately 16 mm in diameter, a size that demands tight manufacturing tolerances. The pavé diamond dial is paired with yellow gold-plated hour and minute hands, without additional complications.
The yellow gold case is fitted with a transparent caseback, a significant decision for a watch with a strong jewellery orientation. This choice explicitly signals that Bvlgari intends the movement to be part of the product’s value, rather than a hidden mechanism.
The Mechanical Relevance of the Lady Solotempo BVS 100 Calibre
At the horological core of the Bvlgari Tubogas Manchette is the Lady Solotempo BVS 100, an in-house automatic movement developed specifically for small-diameter watches.
Key specifications:
- Type: Self-winding mechanical movement
- Power reserve: approximately 50 hours
- Functions: Hours, minutes
- Movement weight: approximately 5 grams
- Diameter: approximately 19 mm
- Thickness: approximately 3.9 mm
- Number of components: 102
Developed over three years at Bvlgari’s manufacture in Le Sentier, Switzerland, the BVS 100 draws on the Maison’s experience with ultra-thin movements such as the Finissimo and Piccolissimo. In the Manchette version, the rotor features a sunray decoration that corresponds with the radial motif found on the bracelet.
In the context of women’s jewellery watches, the presence of an automatic movement with a 50-hour power reserve at this size is not an industry standard, but a clear technical differentiator.
The Position of Bvlgari Tubogas Manchette in the High Jewellery Watch Market
What distinguishes the Bvlgari Tubogas Manchette from many other cuff watches is the balance it achieves between:
- Complex bracelet construction
- The use of high-value gemstones
- An in-house automatic mechanical movement
The Bvlgari Tubogas Manchette is not designed to function as a daily watch or a fleeting statement piece. For collectors and watch observers who evaluate a timepiece through design, manufacturing technique, and movement integration, the Tubogas Manchette offers substantial material for discussion. Not because of marketing claims, but because of the technical solutions consistently applied throughout its construction.
